North Mix Peaks, SSW Lingers (11/01/14)
By Meteorologist Malika Dudley / Email: [email protected]
The National Weather Service has extended the HIGH SURF ADVISORY for east shores of Molokaʻi and Maui until 6 p.m. Saturday, Nov. 1, 2014. Hazardous ocean conditions are expected due to a combo of north swell and increasing winds. Watch out for rip currents, dangerous shore break conditions and strong breaking waves.
A SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY is posted for Maui County windward waters until 6 a.m. Saturday, Nov. 1, 2014. Rough seas are expected from 8 to 12 feet. Winds are forecasted out of the northeast at 25 knots, with higher gusts. This advisory has been extended for the Pailolo Channel and Māʻalaea Bay until Sunday, Nov. 2 at 6 a.m. Inexperienced mariners are cautioned to avoid navigating in these conditions.
North: Surf is expected in the head high to overhead range with sets up to 2 to 3 feet overhead at the best breaks exposed to the swell. Early in the day some spots could get double overhead sets. Swell slowly dropping through the day.
West: Breaks that don’t catch the NNW or SSW swells are forecasted to get smaller surf in the ankle to knee high range. Spots that are open to the swell should see head high to overhead waves with sets up to 2 to 3 feet overhead at the best breaks. Early in the day some spots could possibly get double overhead sets. Swell slowly dropping through the day.
South: Ankle-slappers to possibly waist high surf is expected. Generally the farther south you go, the bigger the waves. The best southern exposures could see waves in the waist to chest high range.
Our current mix of north swells (340-360°) peaked last night. Early today we may still see waves a couple feet overhead for the breaks best exposed to the swell. This swell is expected to gradually fade throughout the day and into early next week. A new northwest swell (315-350°) is expected to build late Monday night and peak in the chest high to overhead range late Tuesday.
A moderate trade wind swell is affecting our eastern shores which are under a high surf advisory at this time. Sloppy, choppy conditions are expected for northeast shores.
A reinforcing swell (200-185°) is expected over the weekend, peaking in the knee to chest high range Saturday into Sunday morning before fading out early next week. After that swell subsides, surf goes quiet with not much on the horizon out of the South Pacific.
Keep in mind, surf heights are measured on the face of the wave from trough to crest. Heights vary from beach to beach, and at the same beach, from break to break.