Advisory Level Swell Saturday, XL Swell Builds Sunday
By Meteorologist Malika Dudley / Email: [email protected]
Alerts (Updated at 8:30 p.m.)
A High Surf Warning will be posted from 6:00 a.m. Sunday through 6:00 a.m. Monday for the north facing shores of Maui and Moloka’i. Surf from 20 to 28 foot faces is expected. Expect ocean water occasionally sweeping across portions of beaches, very strong breaking waves and strong longshore and rip currents. Breaking waves may occasionally impact harbors making navigating the harbor channel difficult. Large breaking surf, significant shore break and dangerous currents will make entering the water very hazardous. Boaters should be aware of an increased number of surfers in the water.
A High Surf Advisory is in effect for the south facing shores of Moloka’i, Lāna’i and Maui (6 to 8 foot faces) through 6:00 a.m. Sunday. Expect strong breaking waves, shore break and strong longshore and rip currents making swimming difficult and dangerous.
A Small Craft Advisory is posted for all Maui County waters through 6:00 a.m. Monday for southwest winds from 15 to 25 knots and rough seas of 10 to 15 feet. Inexperienced mariners should avoid navigating in these conditions.
A Gale Warning is posted for all off shore waters.
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Maui County projected winds, forecasted swell direction, height & period, tides, a surface map and expected wave heights.**
North: Head high to double overhead waves are expected at the best breaks open to the swell. Messy conditions everywhere that doesn’t like southwest winds.
West: Spots open to the northwest swell could see wave heights of about waist high to head high. The best breaks could see larger sets from time to time. Otherwise, breaks that don’t catch the swells, and / or are shadowed from them, are forecasted to get smaller surf. Sloppy conditions.
South: South-southwest swell energy mixed with southwest wind chop expected to produce waves from waist to chest high, possibly bigger at the best breaks. Sloppy conditions.
A shorter period mix of northwesterly swells is expected today, mainly showing for north Maui spots from Ho’okipa eastward.
If the storm develops as models are indicating, an XL northwest swell is expected to build in over Sunday. Deep water breaks could see 18 to 25 foot faces by sunset and into early Monday morning. Will keep watching it to see if the forecast holds true.
Another west-northwest is expected next week (19/20th).
A recent storm near New Zealand is bringing some fun knee to chest high waves for southern exposures. The swell should hold through Saturday. Swell eases Sunday and through early next week. Southwest wind chop is also expected and the conditions are likely to be sloppy with onshore and shifting winds.
Keep in mind, surf heights are measured on the face of the wave from trough to crest. Heights vary from beach to beach, and at the same beach, from break to break.